CMT, FPP & Made-to-Order: Choosing the Right Fashion Production Model for Your Brand
For emerging fashion brands and independent designers, one of the most important decisions you’ll make isn’t just about fabric or fit—it’s about how your garments are produced.
Should you start with Cut, Make, Trim (CMT)?
Do you need Full Package Production (FPP) support?
Or is a Made-to-Order (MTO) model better aligned with your budget and values?
In this guide, we’ll break down these three key production models, who they’re best for, and how they impact your cash flow, risk, and sustainability.
What Is Cut, Make, Trim (CMT)?
Cut, Make, Trim (CMT) is a production model where the manufacturer focuses only on construction.
That means the brand is responsible for the upfront development work, and the factory handles:
Cutting the fabric
Sewing the garments
Adding trims and finishing details
How CMT Works
In a typical CMT setup, the brand provides:
Fabrics and linings
Patterns and tech packs
Trims (labels, zippers, buttons, elastic, etc.)
The manufacturer then:
Cuts the provided fabric according to your patterns
Assembles and stitches the garments
Adds finishes, trims, and any final construction details
Advantages of CMT
CMT is often ideal for brands that already have strong product development capabilities. Key benefits include:
More control over materials
You choose your own fabric suppliers, trims, and quality standards.Easier to maintain brand-specific fits and details
Since you’re supplying patterns and specs, you keep creative and technical control.Flexible for smaller runs
Many small-batch factories offer CMT services tailored to emerging brands.
Challenges of CMT
On the other hand, CMT requires:
More responsibility on the brand side – sourcing fabrics, managing suppliers, and ensuring accurate patterns.
More coordination – you must align timelines between fabric delivery and production slots.
CMT is a great fit if you:
Already work with a pattern maker or product developer
Want close control over materials and design details
Need a production partner, not a full-service solution
What Is Full Package Production (FPP)?
Full Package Production (FPP) is a more comprehensive model where the manufacturer manages the entire process, from idea to finished garment.
In FPP, the manufacturer can handle:
Fabric and trim sourcing
Pattern making and grading
Sampling and fit development
Bulk production and finishing
How FPP Works
Instead of coordinating multiple suppliers, you work with one partner who oversees:
Material sourcing – they find and supply fabrics and trims based on your requirements.
Pattern development – turning your sketches or references into patterns and tech packs.
Sampling – producing prototypes and fit samples for approval.
Bulk production – cutting, sewing, finishing, and packaging at scale.
Advantages of FPP
FPP is designed for brands that want a more hands-off, end-to-end solution. Benefits include:
One central partner for development and production
Time savings – fewer emails, fewer suppliers to manage
Access to expertise – experienced teams who understand grading, fit, and production efficiency
This can be especially useful for:
Newer brands without in-house technical teams
Growing labels transitioning from very small runs to more structured production
Businesses that want to streamline operations and focus on branding, sales, and marketing
Challenges of FPP
With FPP, you may experience:
Higher upfront costs compared to bare-bones CMT
Less direct control over fabric sourcing unless clearly defined in advance
A greater need for clear communication—your vision, quality standards, and brand DNA must be well-briefed.
FPP is a strong choice if you:
Want support across the full production lifecycle
Prefer to delegate technical and sourcing tasks
Are ready to invest in a more structured, scalable production approach
What Is Made-to-Order (MTO)?
Made-to-Order (MTO) is a production model where garments are only produced after a customer places an order.
Instead of holding large amounts of stock, you:
Showcase designs (online or in a showroom)
Accept customer orders
Start production only when an order is confirmed
This model is especially relevant for sustainable, slow fashion, and small-batch brands.
How MTO Works
Typically, the process looks like this:
You present your collection digitally or physically.
A customer places an order in their size, style, and sometimes color choice.
The order is sent to the manufacturer, who produces the specific garment.
Once finished, the piece is shipped to the customer or to your fulfilment centre.
Advantages of Made-to-Order
MTO offers major benefits for both cash flow and sustainability:
No unsold inventory
Production begins after the order is placed, so you avoid deadstock and markdowns.Lower financial risk
You’re not tying up capital in large pre-produced quantities.Less waste
You only use materials for garments that are actually purchased.More room for creativity
You can offer variations in color, length, or finish without overstocking every option.
Challenges of MTO
However, MTO also requires:
Longer lead times for customers – they need to be comfortable waiting for production.
Reliable production partners who can manage smaller, more frequent orders.
Good communication around timelines and expectations.
MTO is ideal if you:
Want to build a sustainable, low-waste brand
Prefer to work with small batches and intentional production
Are focused on higher-quality, longer-lasting pieces rather than fast fashion
How These Models Can Work Together
Many modern fashion brands don’t use just one approach—they combine models based on their needs.
For example:
Use CMT for styles where you already have strong patterns and fabric suppliers.
Use FPP when you’re developing a new category and need help with sourcing and technical development.
Use MTO for signature or premium pieces where exclusivity, customization, and low waste are priorities.
A flexible manufacturer or production partner can support you across these models, depending on:
Your stage of growth
Your budget
Your volume
Your sustainability goals
How to Choose the Right Model for Your Brand
When deciding between CMT, FPP, and MTO, ask yourself:
How much control do I want over fabrics and trims?
High control → CMT
Guided support → FPP
Do I have access to a pattern maker or technical designer?
Yes → CMT can work well
No → FPP may be a better starting point
What’s my cash flow situation?
Limited budget, can’t risk unsold stock → MTO or small-batch production
Ready to scale with larger, planned collections → FPP or CMT with bulk orders
What are my sustainability priorities?
Strong focus on low waste, ethical production → MTO or small-batch, locally coordinated production
Balanced approach with efficient bulk runs → CMT or FPP with responsible partners
Choosing the right model isn’t about following the industry standard—it’s about finding what aligns with your brand strategy, your customers, and your values.
Final Thoughts: Building a Smarter Production Strategy
Understanding the difference between CMT, FPP, and MTO gives you more than vocabulary—it gives you leverage.
With CMT, you gain control and flexibility if you already have a strong development foundation.
With FPP, you get a full-service partner to guide you from sketch to shipment.
With MTO, you align production tightly with demand, reducing risk and waste.
For many independent designers and emerging fashion brands, the ideal path is a hybrid approach—starting small, staying agile, and scaling with partners who understand small-batch, ethical, and modern fashion manufacturing.
If you’re exploring which production model is right for your next collection, consider your resources, your risk tolerance, and the kind of brand you want to build—not just for this season, but for the long term.
